How to Install the
Abit KX7-333/KX7-333R Motherboard
Last updated: 1/18/2004
Install the Motherboard in the Case.
There are nine mounting holes on the motherboard: three across the back,
and two rows of three across the front. The motherboard mounting holes
are not punched according to the ATX form factor specification 2.1 and
older. The third row of mounting holes from the rear of the board would
have been better placed along the very front of the board to better match
many popular cases, such as the Antic
AOpen HX45A. For the installation in the SX840 case we were only
able to use six screws to mount the board and they corresponded to three
holes at the back of the board and the second row of holes form from the
Optionally, you can do as we did and mount two
plastic stand-offs in a couple of the holes in the row at the front of
motherboard as a precaution against the possibility (remote) of pushing the
motherboard down against the case and shorting it while the computer is on.
The plastic standoffs we used are the kind that were used to secure older
motherboard to slots in a case. The part of the standoffs that keyed
to the slots was cut-off with a pair of diagonal cutters.
19. Set the motherboard with the anti-static bag on
top of the side of the case.
as visual guide to screw six standoffs to the case. Screw-in the
standoffs by hand and then use a socket driver to tighten them (you could
use an adjustable wrench or pliers if you are careful).
Do not over-tighten. What remains when they
break can be very difficult to remove. Count them to verify there
are six of them.
Push out/in the blanks in the I/O (Input/Output) panel covering connector
holes needed for the motherboard. We did not have to do anything
with this case/motherboard combination.
21. Gently place the motherboard in the case so the
mounting holes are centered over their respective stand-offs.
Don't force the motherboard into the case--wiggle
it into place if you have to. Be careful with the metal contact
fingers around the holes for the I/O connectors. They stick out so
they will make contact with the motherboard connectors and can get pushed
into the holes. If you see a mounting hole in the two aft rows without a stand-off, you
didn't install six of them or, worse, one of them is in the wrong hole and
under the motherboard where it will short-it-out. I've done it more
than once. It is a very common mistake.
22. Inspect the back of the computer to see if
the I/O connectors are aligned with their respective cutouts, etc.
23. Mount the motherboard to the standoffs with
six M3*5L screws. The correct screws look like chassis screws except
they are smaller and have a finer thread. I call them "Packard-Bell
Other cases use larger screws. I usually
check alignment and screw-in one screw at the center of the rear of the
board, check alignment again, and screw-in another at the front, followed
by the remainder. Do not over-tighten these screws. That could
damage the motherboard.
Sometimes the mounting holes in a motherboard
will not exactly match the standoffs.
The way to handle this problem is to screw in all of the other screws
loosely so that the motherboard can still be moved around. If you are
careful and patient you should be able to get all of them in without using
excessive persuasion and cross-threading them. Once that is done
tighten all of the screws and check them to be sure none of them are
24. Double-check that you have secured the
motherboard with six screws and that all of them properly seated (not
Besides securing the motherboard to the case,
most or all--I can't see all four layers of the board--of these screws
electrically ground the board to the case.
25. If your case fan has a three pin plug, plug the chassis fan wire into the
appropriate jack on the motherboard (the one marked FAN3 for this
motherboard), coil-up the excess wire, and zip-tie it. The
chassis fans for our case had two pin connectors that were connected
26. Remove the rubber band from the front panel
27. Attach the
front panel cable labeled "POWER SWITCH" to connector labeled "Power-on" on
the motherboard (Front left).
28. Connect the front panel connector labeled
"SPEAKER" to the motherboard connector labeled "Speaker."
There is no polarity associated with these two
connections. It is important to connect the speaker now so you can
hear any BIOS error beeps when you first power-up the computer. I do
not install the rest of the front panel connectors until I'm sure I do not
have to remove the motherboard.
29. Remove the rubber band from the power supply
connectors, untangle them and connect the ATX motherboard power plug
to the socket on the motherboard just in front of the CPU with clip facing
towards the front. Firmly push it down until it snaps into place.
It will only plug-in one-way.
30. Unpack the display adapter and put the CD, etc.
that came with it in the motherboard box.
31. Insert the display adapter into the AGP slot (the
brown one), fasten the back of the card to the case with a chassis screw,
and push firmly and evenly down on the card to fully seat it in the socket.
Sometimes an expansion board will pop-up a little
at the front when it is screwed down.
32. Inspect the sides of the AGP socket to be
sure the display adapter is fully and evenly seated.
33. Shake the case for loose screws. If
you see a small rubber standoff, it probably came from the CPU...
Visually inspect everything for possible mistakes and defects. Check
the display adapter and memory again. Check the jumpers. Verify
there are no cables in the fans.
34. Attach your monitor's video cable to the
back of the AGP display adapter. Turn the monitor on, verify that the
power LED lights-up, and let it warm-up.
Check the power supply to be sure that the 110/220 volt switch is in the
36. Plug the computer's power cord into the
computer and into an active outlet.
The computer is now in the "minimum bootable
configuration" (MBC): Motherboard, CPU, heatsink-fan, memory,
video card, power to the motherboard (keep the power cord disconnected),
Power-on switch, Speaker connected, monitor, and nothing else--no drives.
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