How to Install the EpoX
Last updated: 12/6/2001
Install the Motherboard in the Case. There
are ten mounting holes on the motherboard: four across the back, and
two rows of three across the front.
19. Set the motherboard with the anti-static bag on top
of the side of the case. Use
it as visual guide to screw nine standoffs to the case. Screw-in the
standoffs by hand and then use a socket driver to tighten them (you could
use an adjustable wrench or pliers if you are careful).
Do not over-tighten. What remains when they
break can be very difficult to remove. Count them to verify there
are nine of them.
out/in the blanks in the I/O (Input/Output) panel covering connector holes
needed for the motherboard (remove the three audio and game/MIDI port blanks).
21. Gently place the motherboard in the case so the mounting
holes are centered over their respective stand-offs.
Don't force the motherboard into the case--wiggle
it into place if you have to. Be careful with the metal contact
fingers around the holes for the I/O connectors. They stick out
so they will make contact with the motherboard connectors and can get
pushed into he holes. If you see a mounting hole without a stand-off,
you didn't install ten of them or, worse, one of them is in the wrong
hole and under the motherboard where it will short-it-out. I've
done it more than once. It is a very common mistake.
22. Inspect the back of the computer to see if the
I/O connectors are aligned with their respective cutouts, etc.
23. Mount the motherboard to the standoffs with nine
M3*5L screws. The correct screws look like chassis screws except they
are smaller and have a finer thread. I call them "Packard-Bell
Other cases use larger screws. I usually check
alignment and screw-in one screw at the center of the rear of the board,
check alignment again, and screw-in another at the front, followed by
the remainder. Do not over-tighten these screws. That could damage
Sometimes the mounting holes in a motherboard will
not exactly match the standoffs. The
way to handle this problem is to screw in all of the other screws loosely
so that the motherboard can still be moved around. If you are careful
and patient you should be able to get all of them in without using excessive
persuasion and cross-threading them. Once that is done tighten
all of the screws and check them to be sure none of them are cock-eyed. I
did not have this problem with three separate 8KHA+ Motherboards/KS282
case installations I did for this article.
24. Double-check that you have secured the motherboard
with ten screws and that all of them properly seated (not cross-threaded).
Besides securing the motherboard to the case, most
or all--I can't see all four layers of the board--of these screws electrically
ground the board to the case.
25. Plug the chassis fan wire into the appropriate
jack on the motherboard (the one marked FAN3 for this motherboard), coil-up
the excess wire, and zip-tie it.
26. Remove the rubber band from the front panel cables.
Attach the front panel cable labeled "POWER SWITCH" to connector
labeled "POW-ON" on the motherboard (Front right).
28. Connect the front panel connector labeled "SPEAKER" to
the motherboard connector labeled "SPEAKER."
There is no polarity associated with these two connections. It
is important to connect the speaker now so you can hear any BIOS error
beeps when you first power-up the computer. I do not install the
rest of the front panel connectors until I'm sure I do not have to remove
29. Remove the rubber band from the power supply
connectors, untangle them and connect the ATX motherboard power plug to
the socket on the motherboard just in front of the CPU with clip facing towards
the right. Firmly push it down until it snaps into place. It
will only plug-in one-way.
the pdf version of this article plus notes
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